Turning, turning, turning…

I’ve long had a fascination with lathes, and wood lathes in particular. It’s amazing how a lump of wood can turn into a bowl, a candlestick, a shaving brush handle…

Buying a lathe is not cheap, so instead of spending a small pile on cash on a hobby I’ve never really tried before I mocked up a prototype lathe with an old drill and some other odds and ends. Rasps works well when working with soft wood like pine, and after a bit of hit and miss I did manage to turn out a couple of test pieces.

Yes, the two top ones are approximations of shaving brush handles. Obviously they are a long way away from anything usable – but I had fun making them and I can see myself taking up wood turning as a more permanent hobby.

Inside the weird world of disposable cartridge razors

I found an interesting piece of journalism from last year while bouncing around the internet a little while ago, and wanted to share it. It is about the 34 billion(!) world of disposable razors, and the shenanigans the large and small players gets up to in order to get a larger piece of the cake.

Some interesting nibbles:

  • Gillette’s Fusion ProGlide Power Razor consists of more than 60 parts, while several of my razors consists of just three parts.
  • The journalist point out there is an increasing market for traditional safety razors and straights, and this leaves the big players in a conundrum; “They can’t say, ‘Actually, you don’t need five blades, you just need one really sharp one.’.”.
  • The M3 Power was “proven” in court to shave closer than “any other blade on the market” (implied to be carts) – by a whooping 0.0143mm (a little over 5/10000″)…
  • Simple lack of space means seven and eight blade carts are unlikely to happen. But the manufacturers have off course tried for six and seven blades…
  • There are 20,000 patents active in the razor market, and who knows how many that has expired.
  • Shaving your body is – apparently – the latest fad and the height of fashion for guys. Who knew?

A minor niggle: The journalist claims that the safety razor is “a prosaic piece of plastic designed to be thrown in the bin as soon as its short life is over.”. My selection of metal DE’s and SE’s beg to differ – a couple of them are centenarians by now.

Gillette Old Type cracked handle closeup

From what I can tell, it’s hard to find a Gillette Old Type without a cracked handle these days. Drawing on my education and experience, it is in part due to the way they are made – two end pieces press fitted into a hollow tube. As anyone who have worked with machinery can attest to, this kind of construction gives raise to lots of stress on the hollow piece (hoop stresses – not by itself a bad thing). Stress will, over time, give raise to cracking unless the surface is near perfect.

The Old Type handles were probably anything but perfect when they were made – there would be no point in broaching and polishing the barrels, since razors was and are considered semi-disposable items. At the time the Old Type was manufactured machining the barrel the needed close tolerances would also been much more costly than the equivalent operation would be today, both in money and time.

Click to make bigger

The end result is – with more than a hundred years of hindsight – obvious; the handle cracks. My Old Type (part of my Khaki Kit) isn’t bad, just a short crack on either end, but some handles have cracks going straight from one end to the other.

The cracking is repairable, either by filling it with epoxy or – for the adventurous shaver – by silver soldering or welding. In my opinion it’s not needful to repair it unless the crack hampers the enjoyment of the razor. An easier option may be to replace either just the tube or the whole handle – which has the added benefit of being easily reversible later.

Brushes – on a budget!

To quote myself from a post I made over at my favourite shave forum:

If the brush whips up a good lather and it feels okay on your skin, then it’s a good enough brush in my book – a more expensive brush will feel better / last longer / look better, but it won’t shave better.

With that in mind, here is my current brush collection minus my travel brush* and shaving-at-work brush** (click the pictures to make them bigger). None of these are budget breakers, and all of them makes great lather and feels great-to-good on my face.

 As they sit on my shaving shelf – the tray is just to help organise them.
Spread out for  easy viewing

 Semogue “The Shave Nook 2012 Limited Edition” mixed boar-badger
 Vie-Long #12705B natural white pure horse
 Turkish No6 ‘horse hair’
 Omega #10048 boar bristle
 Turkish No7 ‘horse hair’
 Wilkinson Sword Badger
 Vie-Long #13051M unbleached pure horse
Vie-Long #14033 mixed horse-badger

*) A lovely Omega 50014 boar
**) An okayish Body Shop synthetic

Review time: Gillette Khaki Set

A few months back I got my hands on an old soldier – thanks to a fellow gentleman over at my favourite shave forum – and I’ve put the old warrior into use again when I take to the field. He don’t live in my GoBag, but I use him when I’m away on training and when I’ve to spend the night at base.

I’m talking about my Gillette Khaki Set, off course. The serial number marks him as a mid 1918 production, and the single button enclosure he lives him is usually encountered with the first Khaki Sets manufactured for the US Army when they got entangled in the Great War.

The razor itself is a “typical” Old Type Ball End, and the handle has suffered the all too typical crack, without degrading the experience or making the razor less excellent. To me it simply highlights the fact that the old warrior is getting close to a hundred years old, and I actually decided against repairing it for now.

My kit is overall definitely “user grade”: the mirror has gone AWOL at some point, which apparently detracts from the collectors value of the kit… good thing I’m not collecting, but using it. The blade holder is still in great shape, as is the enclosure itself. The print on the inside of the flap has worn a fair bit, but is still legible with the help of a bright lamp.

The Razor itself is a reasonable mild razor, at least when paired with a blade such as the Perma-Sharp Super. The ball on the end of the handle makes it somewhat tail heavy, which could help people new to traditional wetshaving keeping a low pressure. The chequering on the handle is still sharp, which helps with gripping the razor with slippery fingers – being from too much lathering or from the mud of Flanders… even if you’re not in the marked for a Khaki Set, I can definitely recommend a Gillette Old Type.

Value – priceless, given the history.
Quality – high for the whole kit, having been around for almost a hundred years and still in great shape.
User friendliness – uhm.. it’s a three piece razor, how can it not be user friendly?
Grip – as mentioned, great after all these years.
Blade replacement – again, it’s a simple three piece razor.
Aggressiveness – midrange, despite some claims online that the Old Type is aggressive.
Balance – heavy in the tail
Overall – a good razor in a great kit.

GzD shavestick in a shell

My GzD shavestick came with no wrapper, other than a card board box. For a while I had it wrapped in parchment paper, but that got messy when I started to wear it down… so for almost a year now it has languished in a Tupperware, half forgotten. Finishing off a deodorant however changed all that:

 One GzD shavestick, looking lonely.
 One empty twisty tube, freshly washed.
 Insert one into the other.
 Turn knob counterclockwise.
And I’m done – all that is left is finding a permanent marker to make a note of what soap rests within

Bronze age razors

From Vere Gordon Childe’s book “The Bronze Age” (1930):

It is quite possible to shave with a flint blade, and some predynastic flints were undeniably utilised in this way. The early Egyptian metal razors exactly copy these flint forms. One type, confined to the Early Dynastic period, was rectangular with four bevelled edges. Another form, going back to Late Predynastic times, looks like a broad double-edged knife with a short tang. Probably most were sharpened along one edge only, as is certainly the case with the specimens from Queen Hetep-heres’ tomb. A very similar little implement has recently been found in early Sumerian tombs. The Mesopotamian razors, always unfortunately in bad preservation, are regularly found in pairs; it is uncertain whether both edges were sharp. In the Aegean area the earliest certain razors date from the LM III period. The majority are one-edged (Fig. 81) but there are double-edged specimens in which the handle was riveted directly on to the blade without a tang.
The majority of European razors belong to the same family. In the earlier graves of the so-called Siculan II period, containing Mycenaean vases imported from Greece, we find a long blade with slightly concave sides and an indentation at the lower end (Fig. 83). The purpose of the indent was perhaps to allow the forefinger to feel the skin while shaving. In any case it is a prominent feature in nearly all European double-edged razors. In contemporary North Italian implements the indent is much more pronounced, and, above, a wide slit separates the two blades. An openwork handle, generally terminating in a loop and cast in one piece with the blade, was attached to these Italian razors (Fig. 85). They belong to the Middle Bronze Age. Rather later a small group of razors appears in Franconia and Western Bohemia with a very broad double-edged blade, sometimes at least divided by a slit near the end, and an openwork handle cast in one piece with it (Fig. 86). Crude razors of this pattern are found at a relatively later date in Holland and Eastern France (Nievre and Rhone). But the contemporary Central European razors of phase E have already grown into developed horseshoe-shaped blades (Fig. 87).
In Upper Italy, on the other hand, during the Late Bronze Age and first phase of the Early Iron Age (Villanova culture), the razor assumes a rectangular outline, preserving the indent in the lower end as an almost circular aperture and provided with a loop of twisted wire riveted on to the blade as handle (Fig. 88). The same type is found in South Italy and Sicily, but in that island a type, derived from the earlier native form, but with wider blade, more pronounced slit between he edges and a flat tang for handle, is also encountered in the later tombs of the Siculan II period. Similar forms occur in Southern France (Arige and Charente) and probably give a clue to the ancestry of our British razors.
The latter resemble a maple leaf in form. A tang to take the handle projects from the base of the blade and is often continued downwards by a wide midrib along its face. In the opposite end is a deep V-shaped indent and just behind it a circular eyelet. Though generally Late Bronze Age in date, one such blade, though without the round eyelet, was found with rapiers and palstaves in Scotland.[38] It is generally believed that these razors belong to the group of foreign forms introduced into Britain by invaders arriving at the beginning of the Late Bronze Age. The affinities of our razors in any case seem to lie rather with Sicily and the Western Mediterranean than with the countries east of the Rhine.
While the standard European razors of the Bronze Age were double-edged, there is a series in Scandinavia with only one blade. Such are doubtless in the last resort derived from the normal Mycenaean implement (Fig. 91).

A different Single Edge razor

Souveniers

When a wetshaver is traveling, the choice of souvenirs is… different. I’m very happy with a shave stick and a cheap badger brush, and even more by the fact that I found something useful to bring home with me.

Horse hair brushes – softness and backbone

From a thread at my favourite shave forum:

The percentage is around 35% mane and 65% tail but it is not always used in the exact same percentage in every production – it depends on the raw material received each time. The softness is obtained thanks to the mane and the backbone thanks to the tail.

So, speaking logically, a 50-50 mix as some of the Vie Long brushes have will be softer and with less backbone. Good information for those who find Vie Long’s regular brushes to be too stiff and scratchy.