The back end of safety razors: Grinding machine and machine for printing and for other purposes

Often when people talk of people inventing safety razors, they dive into the shape of the top cap, how the base plate was curved, the way the handle was attached and all those bits and pieces the end-user – ie.: the shaver – saw and used.

A lot of what made and broke early safety razors was the “back end” though… the infrastructure to supply consumables. For a razor using a wedge blade this would be a non-issue but if your razor and business idea depended on replacing the blades on a regular basis, you needed to make sure that you could keep up a steady supply of identical blades that are easily recognised as being yours.

Enter left; two early Gillette patents describing just that: A grinding machine that allowed for fast, easy and repeatable sharpening of the blades in an industrial setting, and a machine especially suitable for printing on both sides of a razor blade of the Gillette type.

The sheer size of the patents is perhaps indicative to just how important building the proper infrastructure is… while the original Gillette safety razor had one (1) page of illustrations, while these two patents have nineteen total. And these two devices don’t cover the whole process of making and packaging blades, only two steps among many from the moment rolls of raw steel bands entered the factory until tucks of finished blades were packed in boxes and shipped from the factory.

The OCR is horrendous on both patents, but the images are both clear, detailed and interesting for anyone with a mechanical bent

The grinding machine, US 1 126 839:

The machine for printing and for other purposes, US 1 075 989:

Shave of the day 13 August

Please note: I got home after midnight, hadn’t shaved since Friday and decided to shave in the shower… no brush, just rubbed the cream around with my fingers. Used a handheld mirror, and a disposable so I wouldn’t drop a vintage razor on the tile floor. It worked, but I think I’ll reserve this way to shave for dire emergencies only… there was no Zen.

Razor: BiC Sensitive SE
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Charcoal Mask
Lather: Nivea Mild
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Shave of the day 10th August

Razor: GEM 1912
Blade: GEM Single Edge Stainless
Brush: Wilkinson Sword Badger
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Arko Shavestick
Aftershave: Body Shop Macau Root Energetic Face Protection
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Old GEM advertisement

Appropriate, since I’m using a GEM Clug Pruf this week. Also got the love this little blurb at the marketing wank, which neatly dates the advertisement to the Second World War era:

Conserve steel! Make your blades last much longer by protecting their edges. Keep razoe and blade dry between shaves.

Shave of the day 7th August

Razor: GEM Micromatic Clug Pruf
Blade: GEM Single Edge Stainless
Brush: Vie-Long #13051M
Lather: Mike’s Natural Soaps Orange, Cedarwood & Black Pepper
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

A quick look at the Segal Twist To Open

The Segal was possible the first ever one piece razor, where the shaver twisted the handle to open the top cap. It worked very differently than the silo doors we’re used to today, and required a speciality blade.

Recently I found a video on YouTube that gives a very good impression of how it works:

As for the internals; here is the drawing from the patent:

Shave of the day 5th August

Razor: GEM Micromatic Clug Pruf
Blade: GEM Single Edge Stainless
Brush: Omega #10048
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: CRSW Glide Morning Ghost
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Shave of the day 2nd August

Razor: Schick “Lady Eversharp”
Blade: Proraso Injector
Brush: Semogue TSN LE 2012
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood
Aftershave: Barber No3 Marmara
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

An early patent for adjustable razors

Thanks to Glenn’s website covering the history of Gillette’s adjustable razors, I found a very important number… the number is one million, five hundred and ninety nine thousand,  seven hundred and ninety three. As in US patent number 1 599 793, that is.

To quote from the patent description, it

…relates particularly to an index’adjusting device for use in connection with safety razors of the Gillette type wherein a flexible and elastic blade is provided with cutting edges that are adjustable toward and from the guard member of the razor

In short, it’s about how to make an adjustable razor adjustable.

As can be seen from the image, everything interesting is happening in the head or right below it. Adjusting the dial 16 makes the top cap move up and down in relation to the base plate, while the base plate stays fixed in relationship to the handle. In order to remove or insert a blade, the shaver would turn the dial around and around to unscrew the cap. In other words, this very early version of the Gillette Adjustable works much the same way a Merkur Progress does – although without the central bar the Progress have.

I don’t think Gillette ever manufactured – apart from prototypes – this razor, although it must be pointed out that the method of adjusting this razor bears a lot of resemblance to how Gillette suggested one could “adjust” an Old type razor back when it was first offered:

If a close shave is desired, turn the end of the handle back a little and the edges of the blade will lift slightly from the guard thus permitting closer contact with the face. A moments practice will show the proper adjustment.

The patent is expired, and thus anyone can make a razor like this today; however bear in mind that other aspects of a good adjustable may still be covered by patents. It would still be interesting if a machinist decided to have a go though, so we could compare how far this version is from the other adjustable safety razors.

/Update: I originally believed this was an early Gillette patent, but discussion and research by the members of the Shave Nook showed that this patent was never assigned to Gillette.

Shave of the day 31st July

Razor: Schick “Lady Eversharp”
Blade: Proraso Injector
Brush: Artesania Romera Manchurian Badger, imitation horn
Lather: Asylum Shave Works Colonia
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb