Shave of the day 10th April

Razor: Gillette “Blue”
Blade: Feather Hi-Stainless
Brush: Wilkinson Sword Badger
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Proraso Menthol & Eucalyptus
Aftershave: Barber No3 Marmara
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Shave of the day 7th April

Razor: Gillette “Blue”
Blade: Feather Hi-Stainless
Brush: Vie-Long #14033
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Jabonman Mediterráno L.E. BullGoose
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Square blade ends

We might not think about it today, but those of us who uses vintage razors dating to before the mid 1930’s are actually using them with a blade they were not designed for – but the blade we’re using was designed to be compatible with them. And while the blade shown in this advertisement that ran in the June 1930 edition of Scientific American isn’t identical to the blade we know and love, it’s more than halfway there… Gillette just needed a lawsuit and a messy corporate merger with the American Safety Razor Company to get all the way there.

As an aside, this blade is probably the one covered by US patent US1850902A, filed in 1929. I might go into details on that at some point.

Gillette’s thin, rigid razor blade

Razor blades – by which I mean the traditional double edged blade – is flexible. This is because it’s made out of thin steel, even thinner now than when King Gillette first though them up.1 But flexible blades needs a rigid holder – better known as a safety razor – and as we all know a razor costs money up front. Imagine how many more blades you could sell if the holder – the razor – was significantly cheaper?
This seems to have been the logic behind the patent that Alfred W Proctor filed on behalf of the Gillette Safety Razor Company in 1912. In the words of the patent text:

This invention relates to razor blades of a type now widely used and made of thin sheet steel, as distinguished from forged blades. The facility with which such blades can be manufactured because they do not require forging in order to bring them to shape and because many of the grinding processes incident to the production of a forged razor are unnecessary, has brought them into wide use. Blades made from such thin sheet steel, however, have an inherent flexibility which requires, or at least, makes it desirable to employ With them a holder which embodies a backing, this holder operating to support the blade and impart a certain degree of rigidity to the cutting edge. Such holders are however expensive to make and are undesirable for various reasons.

The holder that supports the blade and imparts a certain degree of rigidity to the blade that Mr Proctor refers to is – as all of you probably realises – the actual razor itself. Personally I cannot see the razor being undesirable for any reason, but it’s certainly true that the double edged blade requires both a bottom plate and a top cap to hold the blade securely and to prevent the blade from vibrating and chatter.
So how did Mr Proctor plan to make the Gillette safety razor – which had been on the market for less than a decade when this patent was filed – obsolete? By making the blade stiff enough to do without the rigidity of the holder – ie.: the razor – much like a straight edge razor. Not by making the blade out of thicker materials, but making it thicker by putting ribs or ridges in it.

In order to impart the necessary or desirable rigidity referred to the blades will be given a configuration which affords such rigidity so that the blades because of their configuration are stiffened.

For the exact same reason that an I-beam is stiffer than a plate, a blade with ridges is stiffer than a blade without.2 And if the blade is stiff and rigid, you can do without the complex holder – that is; the razor. And thus we end up with the invention shown in the patent drawing: A blade with ribs arranged to make it stiff both along it’s length and breath, and a razor that was little more than some bent wire.

The blade may be used in a wire frame such as C which operates merely as a holder and does not impart any appreciable degree of support to the blade.

I think that when all is said and done we ought to be happy Gillette didn’t go down this road, since we would have missed out on so many fun and wonderful razors in the last century.

1) For more details, see my previous blog post on how old razors shaved back when new. The quick summary is that modern blades are half as stiff – or twice as flexible – as the original blades.
2) For the technical details, read up on Euler–Bernoulli beam theory, also known as engineer’s beam theory or classical beam theory. The quick, oversimplified summary is that the taller the web (or the ridges, in the case of this patent) the stiffer the beam (in this case; blade).

Shave of the day 7th February

Razor: Gillette “Blue”
Blade: Gillette Blue
Brush: Vie-Long #14033
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Charcoal Mask
Lather: Prep “The Original Formula” & Palmolive Sensitive
Aftershave: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Shave of the day 5th February

Razor: Gillette “Blue”
Blade: Gillette Blue
Brush: Vie-Long #13051M
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Proraso Menthol & Eucalyptus
Aftershave: Barber No3 Marmara
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Shave of the day 27th January

Razor: Gillette “Blue”
Blade: Gillette Blue
Brush: Omega #10048
Lather: Nivea Mild
Aftershave: Barber No3 Marmara
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

A Gift with a Purpose

An interesting angle on this one; using a safety razor would save you money! It might even been true in the days before Razor Acquisition Disorder…

The razors mentioned would peg this advertisement to the 1910’s, 1920’s, or thereabouts. One online resource – which didn’t mention sources – claims 1916 as the date. If that is correct, the claim of 40-50$ saved in a year equals about 950-1200$ today – not an insignificant amount by any stretch of the imagination.

Are You a Friend of His?

Is this why there are so many vintage Gillettes in near mint condition? You don’t know what to get for your friend, so you buy him a razor… just as several other friends of him did. After all, the ad promises that it’ll be “the happiest hit of the all the gifts at Christmas”.
Guy ends up with half a dozen razors, sticks five in a drawer and uses just one…

Shave of the day 2nd December

Razor: Gillette Slim
Blade: Astra Green
Brush: Vie-Long #14033
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Charcoal Mask
Lather: Proraso Menthol & Eucalyptus
Aftershave: Body Shop Macau Root Energetic Face Protection
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb