Franken-nought-four

My first frankenrazor – or technically speaking, my first two.

First off, this is the Merkur 41C – also known as the 1904 – which is a razor with a good reputation, and one I don’t own:

I noticed that the head of the 1904 looks just like the heads on my Merkur 25C long handled open comb and my Merkur 985CL travel razor. It seems like the Merkur three piece OC’s all share the same style head…

As an interesting sidebar, I found while dredging the web for information on the 1904 and Merkur OC in general that they were actually intended to be adjustable… by loosening the handle 1/8 to 1/4 turn you can adjust the blade angle and gap, while the springiness of the blade should keep the mechanism tight. Needless to say I’m not too keen on trying it out… shaving with a loose head? Anyhow, back to the frankenrazor.

I also noticed that the nice handle of the 1904 looks very much like the handle of my cheap and cheerful Yuma – even if I do believe the Merkur handles are of a much, much better quality, finish and alloy than the cheap Yuma.

Cue wheels spinning…

Gentlemen, allow me to show you something:

This is the cheap and cheerful Yuma – which actually shaves rather well. Notice the handle.
This is the 985CL travel razor, which is a good shaver. Notice the head.

Drummroll please…

I present to you… the Franken-nought-four! The well shaving Merkur three piece OC head matched to the nice looking handle of the Yuma, creating a 1904 look-a-like razor.
The leftovers assemble into the Yuma travel razor… which I may never assemble again.

I could also have used the head from my Merkur 25C, in which case the leftovers would have given me a long handled Yuma. However there is a blade in that razor right now, and I’m not too keen on opening razors before it’s time to ditch the blade.

How the frankenrazors shave? I don’t know yet… but I am going to find out soon enough!

Pictures and quick review of the vintage Ever-Ready 1914

I am a very lucky guy for many reasons, but one of them is that I own an old razor that used belong to an old friend of the family that is – as far as I can tell – in near mint, unused condition. What better way to try SE shaving than with a razor that has a history attached?

Thanks to the friendly fellows at The Shave Nook I identified the razor as an Ever-Ready Model 1914, also known as the little lather catcher. Most of the guys who uses SE razors promised me that it was a wonderfully smooth and mild shave… more on that later

First we got to have pictures!

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Riches revealed; a SE razor and almost full packs of blades.
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Focusing on shiny objects is hard…
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Two packs of blades, one full, one missing one blade – which is in the razor.
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Everything out of the box.
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Just the razor – nice knurled grip, balance near the head.
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Closeup on the head – an interesting (to me) open comb with a bar. Not a spot of rust either, or even much dust.
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The head head-on. The lettering on either side says “LIFT HERE” in a non-serif font.
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The head opened, showing the blade that is in the razor. Two little tabs on each side holds it in place.
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The blade out of the razor. I’m not sure what “radio steel” is, but I know that back in the day radio was a buzz word much like digital was in the 90’s.
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A better view of the lettering on the blade.
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The head with no blade. It’s a little hard to see, but the text says “American Safety Razor Oo. Inc. New York”. Again, it’s practically spotless.
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The underside of the head, reading “Ever-ready” and “Patented March 24/14”
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Another view of the underside. Seems to be a very slight bow to the bar connecting the ends of the comb, but that might be the surface I photographed it on.
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One of the unopened blades. Compared to today’s packaging, this is pretty awesome.
    
This is the old, original blade. Notice how the solid sides lets the hooks on either side hold the blade in place easily.
    
Closing the lid though, it seems that the blade is pushed forward a bit and rests against two small bumps on the razor. The bear-trap lip seems to hold it securely in place too…

The only downside is… I can’t get it to give me a good shave. I can get a near BBS shave on my face with it in a single stroke, but once I get to my neck…. lets say I haven’t had this much razor burn and weepers since I started traditional wetshaving. I’m not sure if it’s the blade flexing – the original blades were certainly thicker and more rigid than the modern GEMs – or if it’s just me not being able to hold the EverReady at the right angle down low on my neck. At any rate it is a real shame, since I would really enjoy using this historic razor… but for now I’ll have to put it aside. Who knows, I might give it another go in a few months and see how I fare then?

Quick review: The YUMA 2.59 / 2.98 dollar safety razor

Bottom line up front: This is not a bad razor when you consider the price – but there are plenty of other, better razors out there if you’re willing to pony up a little more cash.

As part of my experiments in traditional wetshaving – and also with an eye to putting together a cheap starter kit I could PIF to people curious about old fashioned wetshaving, I picked up a very cheap Turkish razor. You can get this for 2.59USD from BestShave, or a whopping 2.98USD if you spring for the boxed version. The box is flimsy plastic and don’t fit the razor very well – allowing it to dance around during shipping – so you might as well save the 40 cents.

The razor in it’s presentation case. Notice the lack of supports holding the razor in place, and also the generous airspace between the lid and razor.
   
The YUMA head on. The actual surface treatment is decent, but not great – I can’t see this razor lasting terrible long with frequent use.
   
Obligatory beuty shot – the hexagonal handle is quite comfortable to hold, but very lightweight. It is also oddly slippery, meaning dry hands is a must when using the YUMA.
   
When disassembled it’s obvious that the YUMA has been designed to be as cheap as possible. Not only is the metal some unidentified for of pot metal, most likely heavily alloyed zinc, but they have also made the molds to use as little of it as possible – hence the very wide gap between the safety bar and the body of the razor head, as well as the     raised bars to lift the blade as opposed to a more traditional design where the center part of the head would be thicker.
The head and handle. Again notice how much care has gone into minimizing the use of metal in this razor. One downside of this is that the razor head is somewhat malleable –    if you look closely you can see that the curvature of the head is slightly uneven.
The YUMA reassembled and back in it’s box. All things considered it’s a fairly decent looking razor with a classical styling – reminiscent of the Merkur C42 in looks but not quality.
In use, the YUMA is.. .interesting. It feels harsh – at least with the Sharb blades – but provides a surprisingly smooth and mild shave. Some online reviews of the YUMA indicates that it should in fact be aggressive, I chalk that up to either the well known concept of YMMV, or possible to the lack of QC in production. The cheapness of construction also means that care has to be taken while loading the YUMA, to ensure an even blade exposure on both sides of the head. Care must also be taken while using the YUMA, since I found that the head have a disturbing tendency to work itself loose from the handle – which may be an issue with mine rather than a consistent feature with the YUMA. The YUMA handles much like any other short handled razor, although it is extremely lightweight. The hollow, lightweight handle acts as a megaphone, pretty much letting you hear each whisker as it’s cut. As mentioned a couple of times the razor feels fairly rough and harsh, but it does give a remarkable decent shave in the hands  of someone who knows what they are doing. It is also remarkable intolerant of any mistakes the user might make; this makes the YUMA a poor choice for someone just starting out with traditional wetshaving in my opinion.

I cannot in good conscience recommend the YUMA as someones first razor. I will however suggest that it’s a fun little razor to play around with for an experienced shaver, or to use as a travel razor. For less than three dollars it’s actually remarkable good value… but keep in mind that the value is that low.

Quick review: Aubrey Men’s Stock North Woods Aftershave

Still on the go, so still reviewing stuff in my GoBag:

From some source or other my Better Half received a small sample bottle of Aubrey Men’s Stock North Woods aftershave. The sample was of a decent size, so it went in my GoBag. Having used it for two weeks straight, the sample is now all but gone… and no real loss there.

It smells good; a light but masculine smell that lingers just long enough to remind me of the evergreen forests I grew up near. However, smelling good is all it does… it don’t seal any nicks, and it don’t moisturise my skin. On the contrary it dries my skin out even more; this is pretty much alcohol with a bit of scents thrown in.

If you want an aftershave that smells nice and nothing more, you could do worse than checking out the Aubrey Men’s Stock North Woods aftershave. If you – like me – has grown used to aftershaves that do more than just smell nice, I recommend steering clear of this – which is a shame since I like the scent.

Lots of loot

I’swung by home the last weekend, just in time to get a box from Turkey at the post office.
   

Lots of fun stuff here. First out, the bowl that one of the guys on my favourite shave forum referred to as a fairy tale shave bowl. It’s quite nice, even more so when the price is taken into consideration:
   
   
   

I made sure to pick up a Arko shaving cream – I haven’t tried it before, and this one is mentholated… I like menthol:
   
   

Then it’s the great unknown: one of the cheapest razors I’ve come across so far. I opted for the boxed version, which brought up the price by 50% – and it was still under 3 USD! Almost scared to try it… but also oh so tempted. Gents, let me present the YUMA! Notice the hollow handle, the paper-thin head and the “who knows what fell into the pot” zinc alloy;
   
   
   
   
   
   

Next up a quality razor from Egypt – or at least more expensive than the yuma. Still cheap and hopefully cheerful, the Racer Razor – which I seriously am considering as part of a starter kit I’m planning to put together:
   
   

And last, but not least, the neck duster I told my Better Half was the reason for the whole order – so she can get all the little crumbs off my neck and shoulders when she buzzes my head.
   

It’s like having an impromptu little Christmas!

Quick review: Body Shop synthetic brush

Still I’m on the go, so still reviewing a few of the things in my GoBag…

Bottom line up front? The Body Shop brush is a perfectly acceptable brush.

The one in my GoBag is my second one, after wearing out the first – and I got my third BS brush in my nook at home, as part of my rotation. I bought the brush in my GoBag before I got into DE shaving – canned goo was never for me, so only a couple of weeks after I started shaving frequently I bought my first brush and shave cream from Body Shop. Even with my on-and-off shaving, beard growing and experiments with electrics the brush was worn out after fifteen years… so a replacement was needed. Less than a year later I started DE shaving and realised there were better brushes by far out there… anyhow, back to the brush in question:

The brush itself is simple; a turned wooden handle, a knot of white man-made fibre dyed dark on the tips (probably to imitate badger) and… well, that’s all really. The first one I had had an all white knot, and was much  less soft than the current model. The current model is far from badger soft through, or even as soft as a broken in boar. If anything it’s closer to unbroken horse, so if you want a soft touch this may not be the best choice of brush.

It’s not a big brush – about the same size as my Turkish No6 – and the balance is towards the handle. It’s not particularly dense either, but if it had been denser the knot would probably been way to stiff. Speaking of the knot; it don’t really retain much water either – but then again from what I gathered only the most costly of synthetic brushes do. This can be a problem if you like to lather directly on your face, but with a bit of dipping and some pumping it can still deliver a wonderful lather in copious quantities.

What I can say with certainty is that the quality of the brush has been improved – the pair I has gotten over the last three years or so is heads and shoulders above the one I got back in ’92 or thereabouts, before I went to boot camp. The old one would shed a hair, or two or three, each time I used it – the now ones does not. The old handle had a very thin coat of varnish, the newer ones have a thicker, more durable layer.

Overall I would rate the brush as a good starter brush, even if it’s more expensive than my favoured Turkish horses, and a good travel brush considering it dries in less time than it takes me to drink a cup of coffee.

Quick Review: Nivea Mild Shaving Cream

Since I’m on the go, it makes sense to review a few of the things in my GoBag…

I received a tube of Nivea Mild a little while ago as part of a generous PIF, but have been too busy with my other soaps to take time to try it. Since it’s in a tube, I decided to put it in my GoBag before I went this time around, and I don’t regret it.

It lathers easily enough with the help of a brush, and I suspect it’ll lather up okay even if you shave brushless. It provides a decent glide and cushion, although not quite up there with some of my better soaps – still more than acceptable though, and heads and shoulders over any canned goo you can think of. According to the label it should “pflegt & entspannt” – that’s “nourishes and relaxes” for those who’s German is a bit rusty – and it certainly feels good on the skin.

The scent is faint and lemony, but reminds me a little bit of air freshener… it’s not a bad smell, but since I’m mostly using hand made and somewhat high end soaps at home I’m a bit spoiled. As much as it galls me to say so, the Nivea Mild smells of of fake scent. If you can live with that is up to you – I don’t have a problem with it while I’m travelling at least, but it would put the cream out of the rotation if I was in my nook.

Overall, if you want cream in a tube and don’t mind manufactured scents – as opposed to natural ones – I can recommend the Nivea Mild.

New arrival – Vie Long mixed hair brush

An eagerly awaited upon package arrived last weekend; a new brush for my shave nook!
The Vie-Long 14033 is a mixed horse and badger brush, with a loft of 53mm and a 20mm knot. Even came with a handy, dandy stand… very much looking forward to breaking this beauty in.

Review: Turkish horse hair brushes No6 and No7

As far as I can tell these two brushes have a pretty similar knot and handles much the same, so I’ll treat them as one for the purpose of this short review. As I’ll touch upon later, the differences in behaviour between two of the same model is likely to be as big as the differences between the two models.

Brushes can be expensive, especially if you gotten into badger territory. On the other hand, brushes can be cheap without being bad – if you’re willing to take a change on something different. Bestshave.net in offers two horse hair brushes hovering around 2.50 USD which have gathered quite a following around the world – the imaginatively named No6 and No7. The former has a wooden handle and is the slightly cheaper of the two, the later comes with a plastic handle that will set you back another dime.

As mentioned briefly, the two brushes shares a pretty similar knot as far as I can tell. Both brushes have a loft that is 50 mm above the handle, and they are about equally thick at the base. Bestshave.net lists that the knot measures about 25 mm on the No6 and about 20 mm on the No7 at the base – however, the No6 have undergone a redesign since I bought mine which probably explains the difference.

The knots are fairly densely packed, but not overly so – giving them a bit of spring and flex. Be warned though; a quick look online indicates that both brushes suffers from some QA issues – in short the quality varies wildly – even if comments seems to point to this issue slowly getting resolved; the No6 is now offered along with the reassurance that “Now, more quality, and aesthetics“. There also seems to be some discussion around the web as to the nature of the hair used for the No7; some say it’s boar but most seems to agree that it is indeed horse. Could be a case of using what hair you got laying around I guess – these are cheap and cheerful brushes.

Getting down to the basics; are they any good? Can a brush costing about one cup of coffee work well?

In short, yes. They both work great – good backbone, good flow, little to no scratching… in short, everything a brush should be in my opinion. They both smelled a bit of horse the first few times I used them, but frankly that isn’t a bad smell. To top it off the balance is good too, with the centre of gravity on a loaded brush about where the handle and knot meet, and both No6 and No7 offers a reasonable comfortable grip. So far both have been able to whip any soap I tried into a smooth, creamy lather – both in a bowl and on my face. The slightly larger No6 holds more lather but the slimmer No7 can hold plenty enough for two and even three passes – even with my spotty technique.

Are there better brushes out there? Certainly.
Are there cheaper brushes out there? Possible.
Are there brushes out there that gives so much performance for so little cash? I seriously doubt it.

The Turkish No6 and No7 would be an excellent first brush for a newbie not wanting to spend much money on a new hobby. They would also be a good “first horse” for more experienced shavers who wants to try something new. No7, with the plastic handle, could be a great brush for travel – one you won’t be heartbroken over if you forget in a hotel. Or you could simply get one just for the fun of it – letting you get one more brush in your rotation without laying out more money than you would for a cup of coffee. Overall I would rate the No6 with it’s wooden handle higher – not only do you save a whooping ten cents, but the handle looks better and fits my hand better than the slimmer plastic of the No7.

I must however temper my recommendation with a warning: These are brushes costing about 2.50 USD, manufactured in a place where quality control is spotty as best. Your Mileage May Vary… as always. But can you afford not to try one of these brushes?

Review: Feather Popular

My newest acquisition as far as razors go, the Feather Popular is a mild and kind razor of mixed construction.

I picked the Popular up for less than 10£, but for being a cheap razor it certainly has a lot going for it. Build quality isn’t the highest, but better than most cartridge razors I’ve tried and heads and shoulders over any disposables I’ve seen. The Twist To Open head features stamped and pressed metal doors mounted on a plastic base, while the long handle is all plastic. If you should happen to drop the Popular the thin doors is likely to be knocked out of shape, but so might the doors on a more expensive TTO razor.
As mentioned the Popular is a mild razor – so mild in fact that I feel  it should be paired with an aggressive blade. It makes a very fine job of taming the wicked sharp Feather Hi Stainless blades, giving a smooth, comfortable shave on the most obnoxious stubble. The long handle gives plenty of control to the Popular, but if you should prefer short handled razors you’re out of luck – unless you want to get a sharp knife out and shorten the handle yourself. The light weight makes it somewhat tempting to increase the pressure while shaving, but like any DE razor this is best avoided. It’s safety bar is plastic, which probably is what causes the ever so slight tendency of the Popular to want to go sideways while shaving. Not a big issue, just something to be aware of.
The Popular quickly made itself part of my rotation. It is an excellent first razor since a newbie can try traditional wetshaving for little money, the Popular would make a wonderful travel razor if I didn’t already own one, and it would be a good fit for any wetshaver looking for a mild razor – even if the look and design wont win the Feather Popular any prices.