Shave of the day 6th September

Razor: Gillette Old Type “Khaki”
Blade: Lord Classic
Brush: Omega #50014 Travel
Lather: BEA Shavestick
Aftershave: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum
Additional Care: Alum Travel Stick, & WSP Matterhorn Beard Oil

Thomas E McDermott’s spring-loaded and adjustable “twist to open” razor

Be it known that I, Thomas E McDermott, a citizen of the United States, residing at Somerville, in the county of Middleand State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Safety-Razors…

I’ll grant that Mr McDermott’s invention – which he filed a patent for in 1908 – was certainly new and novel enough for the patent office to grant a patent for… but I’m not entirely convinced that it was a particularly useful improvement. Or an improvement, period. The patents describes a couple of interesting ideas though, and his razor is one the first one to include a twist to open mechanism even if Mr McDermott describes it as an mechanism to primarily adjust the blade gap.

Mr McDermott’s main idea seems to be that what he terms the “blade-bed” – the base plate in double edge terminology – should be resilient and exert a “constant yielding pressure” on the blade, thereby permitting the blade to be adjusted for a close or medium shave and preventing the cutting edge from vibrating.
He solved this by making the base plate spring loaded and movable, so the springs would press the base plate against the equivalent of the top cap. The blade-bed assembly consisted of a bottom piece that included the safety bar, two springs with spring guides, an upper piece that presses against the blades, and some “attaching and connecting parts” – ie.: fasteners and the like. The whole blade-bed assembly is mounted on a threaded rod that can be adjusted up and down via a nut in the handle to adjust the blade gap… and to allow replacement of the blade. It’s the last detail which in my opinion makes this a very, very early example of a twist to open razor.
Mr McDermott also added a second so called improvement to his patent; a roller for rubbing lather on the face. Curiously enough he barely explains it in the text of the patent, just a short paragraph:

A lather roller 34 provided with longitudinal corrugations 35 on its surface is attached to the wall 6 by ears 36 or the roller may be attached to the side arms 2 of the frame l. The ears 36 are provided with openings into which the ends of the spindle 38 pass. A spring catch 39 may be placed, if desired, over the ends of the spindle 38, to permit the lather roller to be readily attached and detached.

And that is all he had to say about that improvement… to me it seems like his main idea was the resilient blade-bed, and the roller just got tacked onto the design later. Such a roller could be added to almost any single edged razor though, if someone was so inclined.
To me the outstanding idea in Mr McDermott’s patent was something he barely touched upon; twisting a knurled nut located in the handle to open the razor for replacing the blade. His resilient blade bed was an evolutionary dead end when it comes to adjustability, and the less we say about his roller, the better.*
This seems to be the only razor or shaving related patent Mr McDermott filed, his other patents are for an animal trap, a folding boat and an improved oar lock.

*) We don’t want to give the multinationals ideas of what more to tack onto their flexible, vibrating, multi-bladed cartridge razors, do we?

Shave of the day 4th September

Razor: Gillette Old Type “Khaki”
Blade: Lord Classic
Brush: Omega #50014 Travel
Lather: BEA Shavestick
Aftershave: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum
Additional Care: Alum Travel Stick, & WSP Matterhorn Beard Oil

What goes in the GoBag?

When I talk about my GoBag, I talk about the bag I grab whenever I have to go somewhere for my job – for training, classes or other happenings that usually means long days and little sleep. But no sleep for several days in a row don’t mean that you have to end up as a shambling, unkempt zombie… on the contrary; with the right gear in the GoBag and a fifteen minute break you can be a neat and dapper walking dead (lets face it; shaving does not replace sleep).

So what goes in my GoBag to allow me to manage this transformation? Not a whole lot to be honest… have a look:
From the back and left:
  • Alum stick in a travel container
  • A travel sized thing of Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum aftershave
  • A bottle of WSP Matterhorn beard oil
  • A small styptic pencil, just in case
  • A BEA shavestick
  • An Omega #50014 travel brush
  • A “Khaki Kit” with a vintage Gillette Old and a pack of blades

I haven’t had to use the styptic pencil yet, and I’ve just switched from my vintage one hundred and one year old original khaki kit to a modern recreation I received recently.

While I could streamline it further by changing to smaller bottles for the aftershave and beard oil, I wouldn’t really save much space… and since coworkers with less forethought or packing skills sometimes ask if they could borrow a little, it’s nice to have extra.
As you can see, it don’t take a lot if items to have a good shave while on the Go… and not a lot of space either.

Shave of the day 2nd September

Razor: Gillette Old Type “Khaki”
Blade: Lord Classic
Brush: Omega #50014 Travel
Lather: BEA Shavestick
Aftershave: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum
Additional Care: Alum Travel Stick, & WSP Matterhorn Beard Oil

Shave of the day 30th August

Razor: Gillette Old Type “Khaki” (in new single snap case)
Blade: Lord Classic
Brush: Omega #50014 Travel
Lather: BEA Shavestick
Aftershave: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum
Additional Care:
  Alum Travel Stick
  WSP Matterhorn Beard Oil


…like climbing ten flights of stairs

If you are still depending upon the barber or old fashioned razor you are in the same category with the man who climbs ten flight of stairs when there is an elevator in the building.

While there is many things we can gleam from this advertisement from May 1908 – one of which is the almost curious lack of contractions (“you are” instead of “you’re” in the small excerpt I copied above) – the two that stands out to me is the fact that a safety razor with a dozen blades set you back a mere 5 USD, and you could get combination sets for tens times that price.
Adjusting for a hundred and eleven years of inflation, that equals about 140 USD for a single razor with blades, and a whooping 1400 USD for the most expensive set…

Shave of the day 28th August

Razor: Phillips Philite
Blade: Treet Platinum
Brush: Semogue TSN LE 2012
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Brutalt Bra TSN LE / Norwegian Wood
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

More razor infrastructure – the art of the sale

So you invented a safety razor. You designed the machinery for making blades cheaply and easily. But until you can convince shavers to buy your razor, you’re nowhere close to turning every man into his own barber.
Selling is – I’m told – mainly about presentation, double so when selling to a merchant. And who wants to rummage around in a dark box to pick up a cased razor? So Gillette bought out a patent by Mr Nelson H Fairweather for a suitable display case; one I think would be well suited to a travelling salesman peddling his wares to merchants.

The mechanism is simple, yet elegant… as the lid opens, the tray with the wares lifts up and locks in place – a neat little trick, just the thing to lend a little extra to your sales pitch.

Shave of the day 26th August

Razor: Phillips Philite
Blade: Treet Platinum
Brush: Artesania Romera Manchurian Badger, imitation horn
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Pereira Shavery Orange Blossom w/ activated charcoal
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave
Balm Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb