Diamond Edge razor – patent and brief history

As I was poking around for information on a different razor, I stumbled over the abbreviated history of the Diamond Edge Razor, as made by the Norvell-Shapleigh Hardware Co – later the Shapleight Hardware – in St Louis, Missouri, between 1910 and 1919. Described in Waits’ Compendium as a single edge hoe style razor with a closed comb guard, it apparently was offered in a number of different styles; the DE100 was silver plated in green lined box, the DE200 had red lining and gold plated tips, the DE300 had gold plated frame with gold and silver plated handle in an imitation pigskin case, while the top model – the DE400 – was all gold plated, came in a gold plated box with it’s own stropper.

As can be guessed by the fact that you got a stropper with the high end kit, the Diamond Edge wasn’t meant to use disposable blades – rather reusable ones. All models seems to have been delivered with a holder for the blade to make them easier to strop, so even if replacement blades were available,1 it seems the idea was to buy a razor with enough blades to last practically forever.

The patent for the Diamond Edge was filed by Carl Gustav Schimkat in the beginning of 1906 – so before Gillette had emerged as the top dog in the safety razor market. The Diamond Edge was one of several fairly successful competitors to the Gillette, in what was a fairly fluid marketplace. The patent itself isn’t too earth-shattering in hindsight, like many others it aimed to

…produce a simple and inexpensive safety razor…

From patent US866969A

Simple and inexpensive meant that one could tap into a large marked; people who would like to be clean shaven, but who couldn’t afford an expensive razor or frequent visits to the barber.

An interesting element of the razor was that the blade wasn’t held by the razor directly, but by a retainer (12) that helped give the blade the required rigidity – which make sense considering the design of the razor was very close to the Kampfe wedge razor design in concept if not in execution.

It seems like the success of the Gillette during and after the Great War killed off the Diamond edge… it is hard to compete with a razor all the doughboys got for free while in the service after all. Those who owned them probably used them while blades could be gotten, but today the Diamond Edge and other single edge hoe style razors seems to have been all but forgotten.. what little we can easily find and use today is vintage EverReady and GEM style razors.

For those interested, the whole patent can be read at Google Patents and razors.click.

1) Clark’s Blade & Razor Co, operating out of Newark, NJ, offered off-brand blades via the Sears Catalogue for a wide range of razors until at least the end of the 1920’s. Their No3 blade is advertised as fitting the Diamond Edge as well as Auto Strop, Young and other razors.

Shave of the day 1st April

Razor: Merkur 39C Slant
Blade: Wilkinson Sword
Brush: Omega #10048
Lather: Nivea Mild
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

A collapsible lather brush

The desire to improve and enhance upon things must be as old as the drive to invent in the first place, and the brush that Mr Marcus B Berhman filed a patent for in 1919 is in fact a useful improvement on the classic brush – if only for travel purposes.

…a lather brush compromising a handle and bristles, the knot of the bristles being held by suitable inner and outer ferrules and the bristles being adapted to be concealed within the handle of the brush or exposed outwardly therefrom for use, said handle being in hinged together sections adapted to be opened outwardly to receive the bristles or to permit the same to be removed from the handle, and said outer ferrule being adapted to lock the handle in closed position, both when the bristles are within the handle and when said bristles are in exposed condition.

Makes me dizzy just to read all that.. but the long and the short is that the handle is hollow, hinged, and shaped to hold the knot when in the stowed position. Luckily the drawing that accompanies the patent is clearer than the text when it comes to explaining things.

From patent US 1,353,984

Looks like a handy travel brush, and one I wouldn’t mind having. I do like the fact that when folded it takes half the space, meaning you can more easily fit a full sized brush in your dopp bag. While the original idea likely was to make it out of stamped sheet metal, there is no reason why a modern recreation of this idea can’t use different materials that stands up to the damp a bit better.

Shave of the day 30th March

Razor: Merkur 39C Slant
Blade: Wilkinson Sword
Brush: Semogue TSN LE 2012
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum Soap
Aftershave: Krampert’s Finest Bay Rum
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Need something to do while in corona lock-down?

Got time to spare while being at home due to the situation in the world today? Or just want a light read in between being busy with work?

70 razor and shaving patents – available both as an paperback and for Kindle1 – is a somewhat serious, somewhat humorous meandering look at the history of shaving, as seen through patents from the last century and a half. Explore a wide range of ideas ranging from electrically heated razors to plug into the light fixtures, magnetic pseudoscience, the ever present vibrating razors, and sensible solutions for razors that were the right idea at the wrong time.

My book explores some of the roads not taken and the blind alleys explored – solutions in search of a problem as well as problems caused by the solutions – by inventors to perfect our daily shave and moment of Zen.

Get it from Amazon; this link should take you to the closest Amazon to your location.

And regardless; try to stay safe in these weird times we’re living through. We will come through the other end, together and freshly shaven.

1) If you have Kindle Unlimited, it is also available to borrow there.

Shave of the day 27th March

Razor: Merkur (?) NOS Bakelite Slant
Blade: Feather Hi-Stainless
Brush: Artesania Romera Manchurian Badger, imitation horn
Lather: Pereira Shavery Shaving Cream w/ Activated Charcoal
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block & Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil

A 1963 Dopp kit for Dad (and other shavers)

While I was once told where the term “Dopp kit” came from – and promptly forgot – the important thing to keep in mind is that we all need a nice, sturdy, roomy toiletry bag from time to time when we travel… got to fit our shave gear and a few other bits and pieces too in it, after all.

So while I was browsing online today I came over this advertisement from June ’63 (just a little under sixty years ago) that features a dopp bag that seems to fit the bill perfectly:

Somehow I suspect I would have to fork over a wee bit more than $7.50 today ($63.40 today, adjusted for inflation) for a similar kit today… but if I could find one like the one in the advertisement it could be worth it.

Shave of the day 25th March


Razor: Merkur (?) NOS Bakelite Slant
Blade: Feather Hi-Stainless
Brush: Brush Experimental Alpha
Lather: GzD Shavestick
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block

Combination Shaving Set

A quadruple Plate combination shaving set, none the less.. just the thing to avoid shaving in cold water ever again.

A 1896 advertisement from Pairpoint MFG Company

For most of us – close to one and a quarter century after this ad was printed – the idea of not having hot water available on command from the tap in the bathroom is an alien concept. We might choose to shave with cold water, which can be quite refreshing in summer – but it’s a choice we make, and not something we are forced to endure.

True, in the larger cities water pipes and sewers were in place, but if you lived in a rural area there was a good chance that your options were a well and an outhouse (hopefully situated well apart). The option for having hot water for your shave in just two minutes would have been a godsend, and the Combination Shave Set also helped keeping all your shave gear organised.

I’m also reminded of a patent I’ve looked at previously; US144,667 to be exact – titled “Improvement in shaving-mugs” – which covered a shaving mug with a stand and heater. It’s discussed in my book, which you can get both as a paperback or in Kindle format.

Shave of the day 23rd March

Razor: Merkur (?) NOS Bakelite Slant
Blade: Feather Hi-Stainless
Brush: Vie-Long #12705B
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Cold River Soap Works’ Barbere Sapone
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb