The Man With the Hoe – Shaving

As I’ve mentioned before Gillette wasn’t the only one trying to invent and patent a perfected safety razor around the turn of the last century. One of the main competitors was Russ Jackson Christy and his family of Christy Hoe Razors.

I’ve mentioned Christy’s razors in passing before, but here we have the real deal. Not a razor using a Christy blade, not a razor similar to a Christy Hoe, but an early advertisement for a proper Christy Hoe. And while this ad reads rather different than the one we looked at last week – due to being aimed at a different class of audience perhaps – it still have a lot of words and is rather information dense compared to advertisements of today.

Advertising For The Christy Hoe Safety Razor, from The Pittsburgh Pennsylvania Press Newspaper, March 13, 1906

I like his this ad reads much like I expect a gentleman of the era to talk. It comes across as informal, is information dense, yet don’t move into information overload.

Allegedly a delightful razor to use, the also highlights the razor’s simplicity. And with just three pieces – handle, blade, and guard – it’s hard to imagine something simpler. And while Gillette advertised a year or so later than blades were inexpensive enough to be thrown away like an old pen nib, one of Christy’s selling points were that the blades were thick enough to strop and would last for months. This alone suggest that the marked for Christy wasn’t the rich, but the frugal.

For as little as 1.50$ – or about 44 US dollars today – you not only got the razor, but also half a dozen blades. Not bad for a frugal man, since that could potentially translate into three years of shaves at a mere fifty cents a year.

If I’m to judge by the drawing and the date, my guess is that the razor being demonstrated in the Men’s Furnishing Department was based of Russ Jackson Christy’s patent US 788,820. For those that are curious, the patent can be viewed either at Google Patent Search or over at razors.click (easier to read, and interactive).

Shave of the day 20th July

Razor: Shick G4
Blade: Schick Injector
Brush: Artesania Romera Manchurian Badger, imitation horn
Lather: Geo F Trumer’s Violet Shaving Cream
Aftershave:  Sample
Additional Care: Alum Block

Shave of the day 17th July

Razor: Shick G4
Blade: Schick Injector
Brush: Brush Experimental Alpha
Lather: Dalane d’men Energenic
Aftershave: BullDog Sensitive Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block

Shave of the day 15th July

Razor: Shick G4
Blade: Schick Injector
Brush: Brush Experimental Alpha
Lather: Palmolive Sensitive w/ aloe vera
Aftershave: Sample
Additional Care: Alum Block

“Shave yourself”

It is 1907, and Christmas is on the horizon. You have – at least in your own mind – perfected the safety razor. You done away with the need for stropping and honing. Now; how do you convince people that your razor, which is not cheap, is THE ideal holiday gift?

By a wall of text accompanied by a photo of yourself, how else?

It is the IDEAL gift. It is NOT a toy. It will LAST. The blades are so INEXPENSIVE that you can just throw them away.

And it does cost. Adjusted for inflation the cheapest combination set would set you back around 180 dollars today. The most expensive option would be a whopping 1390 dollars or so. For that kind of money the razor ought to be good and last forever.

Shave of the day 12th July

Razor: Shick G4
Blade: Schick Injector
Brush: Vie-Long #12705B
Lather: Cold River Soap Works Olfactory Hue
Aftershave:  Sample

Shave of the day 10th July

Razor: GEM Heavy Flat Top
Blade: GEM Single Edge Stainless
Brush: Vie-Long #14033
Lather: Dr Selby Lavender
Aftershave: BullDog Original Aftershave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block

The safety razors of James J Fetzer

King Gillette did not invent his safety razor in a vacuum. Around the turn of the last century, there were a race to invent and patent the ideal safety razor. This should be inexpensive to produce, give a good shave, and preferably would be able to be sold in high numbers with good profit. Gillette wasn’t necessarily the best of the bunch, just the most successful in the long run.

One of the less successful inventors were James J Fetzer, of Columbiana Ohio. Mr Fetzer tok out two patents on behalf of the Herbrand Company.1 Both used a replaceable blade with ears, but differed in how the blade and top cap was secured.

Both patents describe simple hoe style, single edge razors, reminiscent of the Diamond Edge razor I mentioned a while back. Both describe making the comb guard – or base plate, in the terminology of today – out of sheet metal with the edge curled. And both seems to have thin handles – but that seem to have been popular on many Christy style hoe razors as well.

His earliest patent – US 819,640 – describes a razor where the nut holding the handle is attached to the top cap, and the handle presses the guard and blade against the cap. One problem I see right away is that over-tightening the handle will bend the top cap upwards. I would have put some reinforcements around the back of the assembly to strengthen it.

His slightly later patent – US 840,449 – describes a razor with a separate top cap, base plate, and jam nut – all of which is both screwed onto the handle. While this avoids the possibility of stressing the top cap, it mean that the user will have to tighten the small jam nut. This will be harder than if you can twist the entire handle, especially if you have wet hands.

In the end I suspect Herbrand – and by extension, J J Fetzer – wasn’t forgotten because their razors were inherently less good than Gillette. Rather they were put aside and forgotten because production of replacement blades2 stopped. Which is a shame when you think about it, because there is a lot of fun history lurking in old razors.

The OCR on both patents – as I found them with the Google Patent Search – is pretty bad. Luckily for me – and you – razors.click has both of them on his website, nicely readable and with clickable drawings. Direct links; US819640 and US840449.

Footnotes:

(1) According to Waits’ Compendium, the HERBRAND trademark was renewed in 1929 for razors… and then disappeared.

(2) Blades for Christy and Ender style hoe razors were also manufactured by third part blade makers. For instance Clark’s Blade & Razor Co (Newark, NJ) offered off-brand blades for a wide range of razors. They sold via the Sears Catalogue until at least the end of the 1920’s.

Shave of the day 8th July

Razor: GEM Heavy Flat Top
Blade: GEM Single Edge Stainless
Brush: Wilkinson Sword Badger
Lather: Proraso Menthol & Eucalyptus
Aftershave: Myrsol Formula K
Additional Care: Alum Block

Shave of the day 6th July

Razor: GEM Heavy Flat Top
Blade: GEM Single Edge Stainless
Brush: Vie-Long #13051M
Lather: Brutalt Bra TSN LE / Norwegian Wood
Aftershave: Nivea Cooling After Shave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block & Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil