Irritation of the skin – it’s cause and prevention

Again, Shaving Made Easy:

Some men almost always experience burning and irritation of the skin after shaving. To such, we wish to offer some suggestions, which we hope will greatly benefit, if not entirely prevent the trouble.
The most common cause of irritation is undoubtedly a dull razor. If the razor is keen and sharp, the hairs will yield readily to the blade and no irritation will be produced. But if the blade is dull, instead of cutting the hairs easily, it passes over some, slices other lengthwise, and pulls and strains at the roots of all. This necessitates scraping the face over and over again, in order to get a clean shave, and the result is an irritation that perhaps continues until you are ready to shave again. Thus the tender parts of the skin are kept in a state of continual irritation. The remedy is of course, to see that the razor is always keen and sharp.
Another cause that may be mentioned, is chafing of the neck by the collar. If the edge of the collar is worn and rough, and comes in contact with the tender skin, it is sure to make it sore.
Too close shaving is a frequent cause, and those who are troubled in this way will do well to shave over the face but once.
Some of the cheap toilet waters are adulterated, and contain ingredients which undoubtedly produce a bad effect on the skin. In using bay rum or other face lotions, use only the best. If much trouble is experienced, we should advise the use of pure distilled witch hazel, which may be obtained at any drug store. This is soothing to the face and allays the burning.
Sometimes the trouble is due to an excess of alkali or potash in the soap. The best shaving soaps are especially prepared and have antiseptic and demulcent properties, which render them practically non-irritating. After shaving, take care to remove all the soap from the face; for during the process, the lather has been worked into the pores of the skin, and only by means of a thorough washing can it all be removed.
Irritations resulting from constitutional disease, or impurity of the blood, should, of course, be treated by a physician.
Some men are more subject to irritation of the skin than others. Those who have a thin and tender skin and a heavy and stiff beard, are especially liable, but with care, even these may prevent most of the trouble.

Just as true today as it was 110 years ago.. a few observations and comments:

  • A dull razor is something we who uses SE and DE can easily avoid – the cartridge user too, if he changes carts often. For those who wield the straight it’s avoidable too, it just is a little more work to hone a razor than the change a blade.
  • Chaffing can be as much of a problem today as it was back then, but at least we can be well dressed without having to put on a tall, cardboard stiff detachable collar.
  • Too close a shave… yes, we have all been there, chasing the BBS. Most of us learn not to do fifteen passes after a while.
  • Substandard aftershaves and soaps are hopefully less of an issue today than a century ago, since consumer protection has come a long way since then. But if you’re getting irritated skin and nothing else helps, try changing the products you use.
  • Tender skin and stiff beards can be cured with due care and diligence – pre- and postshave treatment is the key there.

Mirrors, shirts and collars.

I keep coming back to the free book Shaving Made Easy, since it’s both a fun read in it’s old fashioned way and I learn something new.

Today I was looking up what the author had to say about mirrors;

Position of the Mirror.

The mirror should hang between two windows if possible, so that when you look into it the light will fall directly upon both sides of your face. You will then be able to get a good reflection of either side. Remove the collar. To prevent soiling the shirt, place a towel around the neck in an easy, comfortable manner, pinning it at the side.

 The importance of good light aside… remove the collar?

Turns out that a well dressed gentleman a century ago not just shaved in his shirt, but said shirt had a detachable collar like this one:

The upside was that the collar could be kept clean and well starched, which apparently was the Done Thing for a respectable gentleman at the time… so well starched in fact that the Norwegian (as well as Danish and German) term for a detachable collar was “Father murderer” – the idea being that the stiff edge could slit your throat if you turned your head around.

While we might still slit our throats with out razors, at least our shirts aren’t going to be the end of us these days…

Ouch!

When most men wants to remove unsightly hair, they reach for a razor and some foamy stuff… …women on the other hand seem to do horrible things to themselves, such as:

  • Rubbing thioglycolic acid over their skin to dissolve the keratin in the hair…
  • Pouring hot wax or warmed sugar on their skin, letting it cool… before ripping the hairs (and skin) off…
  • Using what appers to be a torture device to rip hairs out…

Honestly, I rather suffer shave bumps and cuts from using a cartridge than doing any of those things…

Ladies? Keep your hairy legs if you like – or get your Significant Other to whip up some lather and shave them for you – because those things you do to keep them smooth sounds horrifying!

Alum – not just for the face

Potassium alum – technically known as KAl(SO4)2 – has several interesting abilities and uses; for tanning hides, for clarifying water (settling and removing of particles), making flame retardants and fire extinguishers. as a preservative and spice for pickling, as an alternative for pomade for those sporting a flattop hairstyle, as an astringents and a blood coagulant, and it has antiperspirant and anti bacterial properties.

The later – the antiperspirant and anti bacterial properties – was discovered in antiquity, even if they probably didn’t use those terms back then… after all, bacteria wasn’t discovered until 1676, and their connection with diseases not understood until the last part of the 1800’s. What they did notice back in antiquity was that it would stop you from sweating and stinking up the place… in other words, that alum worked as a deodorant.

For the last year and a half – maybe a bit longer – I’ve been mainly using a hunk of potassium alum under my arms instead of the mix of chemicals that have become more common to use in the western world. It works well for me, if I observe two basic rules:Put it on when I’m fresh out of the shower – it works best at keeping the stench at bay if my pit’s isn’t allready stinking – and put it on damp…

I don’t use alum in the GoBag – I simply can’t guarantee when or if I’ll get a shower on the go, so I resort to more common sorts of deodorants which covers the stench with a different smell.I also don’t use alum on the warmest, muggiest days in the summertime – at least for me the  antiperspirant properties of an alum block just isn’t strong enough when I’m sweating like a pig.

Alum antiperspirants can be found in various forms; sticks, gels, roll-ons… or as I prefer, a hunk of alum crystal. If you’re not happy with more common deodorants for whatever reason, I can recommend trying using alum as an antiperspirant instead; it may not be for everybody, but many wetshavers have some already so the cost of trying is near zero.

More camphor soaps

A bit over a year ago I mentioned “Fan medicated soap” here on my blog… and while the scent of it grew less over the months, so did the bars I had. So I had to get more camphor soap, since it actually works well on my legs and keeps my feet reasonable happy while wearing combat boots all day long.

Shopping around, my Better Half found us a good deal on Shanghai Yaozao soap – an antibacterial soap with camphor… so now I have a dozen bars in stock, which should last… oh… six years or so?

In use the Yaozao is very much like the Fan – so much so I suspect it’s the same soap (it is from the same factory) in a different box.
If your feet is unhappy, and you can deal with the camphor smell, I suggest getting some – although you might want to try one bar before buying a dozen.

Review: BodyShop Hemp Hand Protector

One of the things that was missing in my GoBag was a decent lotion / hand cream… no longer. My local BodyShop was – still is – selling a gift-set with various hand creams; Wild Rose, Almond and Hemp…

I was already somwhat familiar with BodyShop’s hemp-products, so I had no calms about picking a set up and gifting the two surplus-to-requirement creams to my Better Half.

The hemp hand protector is close to my ideal skin protection; it goes on easy, dries fast and don’t feel greasy on my hands or my face. It also stays on a long time – it has survived on my face for a whole day while out-and-about, in the rain no less. It is also long-lasting; a small peanut sized blob is enough to do my hands, face and neck.

Overall I can recommend the BodyShop Hemp Hand Protector if you’re in need of a long lasting moisturising hand and face lotion that won’t feel greasy on your skin.

Ingredients: Aqua, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cera Alba, Panthenol, Methyl Soyate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Talc, CI 77288, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499.

Quick review: Mike’s Natural Soaps’ Shampoo Bar

Finding the right shampoo can be tricky, even more so when I try to avoid the stuff where the list of ingredients sounds like an accident in a chemical factory… For several years I’ve been using the shampoo from BodyShop but recently I ordered a shampoo bar from Mike’s, based on the overall positive reviews over at my favourite shave forum.

After the first week of use I’m quite satisfied – it’s easy to use, although different than the liquid shampoo I’m used to, and my hair is clean. The scent is… well, lets say it took me a couple of days to get used to it, but now I find that I rather like it. I suspect it’s the combination of tea-tree oil and peppermint that caused me to pause at first. using the bar is simplicity itself – I just wet my hair, rub the bar over my scalp once, put the bar down, and then proceed as with regular shampoo.

As with everything else, shampoos is a case of YMMV – but with my dryish scalp and short hair I find that Mike’s shampoo bar do a good job with no mess. I’m happy I also picked up one of the travel bars to go in my GoBag.

Stinging nettle infusion

There is more to taking care of ones appearance than a great shave – even if a great shave goes a long way – and one problem many have is dry scalp. Or, put bluntly, dandruff… I suffer from it from time to time – usually in the summertime – but have found a cheap way to deal with it that works wonders for me.

First step is to get some gloves out… because you should go pick yourself a big bundle of stinging nettle leaves. Fresh leaves are best – or so my sources say – and you going to need half a liter of so of packed leaves (that’s a pint or so for those who haven’t gone metric yet…). Grab an enameled or stainless steel pot and put the leaves in, then add about a half liter of water – distilled or bottled water is ideal, but tap water should work fine unless you got very hard water. Bring to a boil, then pull of the heat and let sit until it’s cool.

Once it’s cooled down to room temperature you can simply strain the leaves out and transfer the infusion to a plastic or glass container. Used as a rinse when washing ones hair should help against dandruff – I also mix a little with the shampoo to work it into my scalp. Excess infusion keeps well in the fridge by the way, so you can make a large batch early in the season and keep all summer.

In addition to helping with dandruff, nettle is also commonly held to promote glossy hair – which apparently is why some farmers adds it to the cattle-feed. Nettle tea – preferably with a sweetener – is traditionally considered to be good against many ailments, both internal and external, among them disorders of the kidneys and urinary tract, gastrointestinal tract, locomotor system, skin, cardio-vascular system, hemorrhage, flu, rheumatism and gout.. One should be careful with drinking too much though; nettle extracts can cause increased testosterone levels, and have been used by bodybuilders to achieve that effect.

The rest of the body – camphor soap

While the focus on this blog is – naturally – the lower half of my face, I do try to take care of the rest of me as well.

My latest effort in that regard is a bar of “Fan medicated soap”, a Chinese soap which is heavily spiked with camphor. It’s supposed to “helps troublesome skin conditions and clears away jealousy, evil spirits, and unnatural illness”*, which I suspect is just what my feet needs from being in combat boots all day.

Packaging is simple; small plastic bag in a bright red Art Deco styled cardboard box that’s quite stricking. No list of ingredients, but it certainly have no lack of camphor.

The scent of it is strong – to the point where I think we’re going to have to keep the bar in a tupperware – but not unpleasant. The bar don’t lather easily but by using my hairy legs in much the same way I use my stubble to get soap of a shavestick, I made it work. At least it rinsed off easily…

It made for squeaky clean feet that smells of camphor… somehow I think the scent will linger for a  few hours.

*) All according to the website my Better Half got it from – it’s available elsewhere, but not from many places that ships to Norway.