Razor: Cadet TTO-13
Blade: KAI stainless
Brush: Vie-Long #12705B
Lather: Asylum Shave Works Frankincense & Myrrh
Aftershave: Asylum Shave Works Frankincense & Myrrh
Additional Care: Alum Block & BullDog Original Beard Oil
Razor: Cadet TTO-11
Blade: Persona Platinum
Brush: Vie-Long #14033
Lather: CRSW Glide Morning Ghost
Aftershave: Nivea Cooling After Shave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block BullDog Original Beard Oil
I do think that this advertisement is trying to push the idea that you could strop the Clemak once a week and have seven days of satisfying shaves. There are strong indications online that the Clemak used blades similar enough to the various GEMs and EverReady razors to be able to take a modern GEM blade – and the old style GEM blades were close enough to old wedge blades to take several rounds on the strop before wearing out.
Clemak was offered up – at least initially – as the cheaper and more British alternative to expensive safety razors, even if (as we’ll see later) it cost more than twice of the advertised five shilling if you wanted the full kit and kaboodle.
I figure we should go on a tangent right here for those less than familiar with old British coinage; one guinea was originally a gold coin worth one pound sterling, which was not minted after 1816. The name lived on and at the time of the Clemak it was referring to a value of one pound and one shilling – or about 21 shillings – which would be 1.05£ today (and keep in mind that the British resisted decimal currency because they figured it would be too complicated according to some of my sources). The guinea had an aristocratic overtone; professional fees and payment for land, horses, art, bespoke tailoring, furniture and other luxury items were often quoted in guineas – hence the question “Why pay a guinea?” – or in other words; why buy a luxery razor when the Clemak is just as good and affordable?
The images used in the advertisements points to the Clemak coming with an optional strop, as well as a selection of blades.
If you wanted to go all out – the razor, a dozen blade, the stropping machine, and a hide strop – you would have to come up with 10 shilling 6 pence – or around 97GBP (135USD) when adjusted for inflation and the change to decimal currency. Not cheap by any means, but nowhere near the prices we have to pay for a high end razor today – and still just half of the one guinea they wonder why you should spend.
Razor: Cadet TTO-11
Blade: Persona Platinum
Brush: Wilkinson Sword Badger
Lather: CRSW Glide Morning Ghost
Aftershave: Proraso Liquid Cream After Shave
Additional Care: Alum Block BullDog Original Beard Balm
From the Monitor Chemicals Ltd of Bomat, India – dating to 1945.
Razor: Cadet TTO-11
Blade: Persona Platinum
Brush: Vie-Long #13051M
Lather: CRSW Glide Morning Ghost
Aftershave: Proraso Wood and Spice
Additional Care: Alum Block BullDog Original Beard Oil
Razor: Cadet TP-01
Blade: Persona Platinum
Brush: Omega #10048
Lather: Proraso Menthol & Eucalyptus
Aftershave: Proraso Liquid Cream After Shave
Additional Care: Alum Block BullDog Original Beard Balm
It’s been a while since I deep dived into the weird world of magnetic razor patents.. so here goes:
Butler Ames patented a razor in 1917 that he claimed was a “new and useful improvements in magnetic razors”.
His razor was – as far as the drawing goes – simply a razor head attached to a horse shoe magnet. Attached BY magnet, in as far as the description describes it:
While the shape of the magnet may be varied within the scope of the present invention, it only being essential that one or more poles be dispose in such manner as to attract the parts and hold them together, I prefer to employ a U-magnet inasmuch as it affords two spaced pole pieces and also affords a handle which is very convenient in shaving.
At the same time Mr Ames also applied for and got a patent for another method of attaching the magnet to the razor head.
To quote Mr Ames from his patent description:
Another cardinal feature of the invention comprises means for rigidly mounting the guard member 6 upon the magnet 1 and at the same time permitting the ready withdrawal of the of the guard member and mounting means from the magnet. The preferred embodiment of the mounting means, according o the present invention, comprises pole pieces 7 adapted to fit over the ends of the as shown in steel or other magnetic material.
But Mr Ames ingenuity hadn’t run dry with two different ways of attaching the magnet to the razor – so he filed a third patent at the same time. This one was intended to make it more difficult for the razor head to tilt on the handle.
To describe this iteration in Mr Ames’ own words;
In the present embodiment of my invention the base or guard member is preferably formed of steel, and as this is a magnetic material I preferably provide means for preventing magnetic flux being shunted from the cap member through the base member, inasmuch as the attraction exerted upon the cap member by the magnet is decreased in proportion to the amount of flux shunted from the cap member. For this purpose I provide bushings of non-magnetic material between the poles of the’magnet and the of collars 16, these collars also serving an– other useful purpose, as will now be described.
In using the device there is a certain amount of pressure exerted on the edges of the guard member which tends to tip it about the central axis of the poles 11 and 12.,
By forming the collars 16 of considerable thickness, bearing surfaces 17 may be provided at their upper ends upon which the guard member may rest throughout a considerable area. Owing to this considerable area and owing to the fact that it extends well out toward the edges of the guard member, the guard member when positioned thereupon is rigidly held in position.
For being a trio of patents covering magnetic razors, the patents Mr Ames applied for and received are blissfully free of woo-woo. No mention of magically keeping the blade sharp, no claims to make better shaves, no rambling of magnetism making the hairs easier to cut or nothing like that… just using magnets to keep the razor together.
Mr Ames took a fourth patent in 1919, that built on his magnetic razor patents; a “new and useful improvements in packages of razor parts”.
Basically a way to pack one of his magnetic razors along with a stack of blades in a small, specially shaped tin. Or as the more verbose patent description states it:
It is the principal object of this invention to provide for the package of disassembled razor parts in small, light and very. compact compass, in such shape as to facilitate packing or carriage on the person under any and all conditions of service. It’is a further object of the invention to provide’ in the package as art thereof, a blade package adapted to facilitate the compact packing of a plurality of blades and to protect their cutting edge or edges until such time as they are successively removed for use.
It would have made a wonderful and compact travel razor kit to be sure – just one I would keep well away from anything that magnetism may affect.
Mr Ames patented a fair number of other things too; magnetic cores, lamps, distilling apparatuses, a reciprocating apparatus… but as far as I can tell he dabbled no further in razors.
Razor: Cadet TP-01
Blade: Persona Platinum
Brush: Semogue TSN LE 2012
Lather: Mike’s Natural Soaps Peppermint & Rosemary
Aftershave: Myrsol Aqua Balsamica
Additional Care: Alum Block & Scotch Porter Beard Balm
Last week I was running a little experiments; lathering soap without the benefit of a brush, as well as trying more common soaps – basically just put soap on face, rub to lather and shave with a BiC disposable. This was in part inspired be a comment someone made a few weeks ago on my favorite shave forum, partly inspired by curiosity (the things I do sometimes…).
First I tried with my trusty Arko Shavestick; result were a very thin layer of lather little less cushioning than when I use it with a brush, but quite acceptable – if you’re used to canned goo at least.
Second out was using Prairie Creations’ Goat Soap hand soap. Results were… okay, if you’re not used to proper shaving. Thin and patchy, didn’t want to stay put on my face. Glide but no cushioning at all. Something like a cream soap might have yielded better results, but I used the bar I had handy.
Last out was my regular shower gel… and I have to admit, the shave was slightly better than the hand soap, and almost on level with one of my brushless creams; glide but no cushion, and no post shave effect at all. I know people who shave in the shower with shower gel, and after giving it a go I pity them.
As to summarise… well, apart from the “what am I doing?”, it shows that you can shave with virtually any soap… it just wont be as good as a proper shave.
If you’re going on an extended hike and can’t find the space to pack a brush, a stick of Arko can suffice to give you a half decent shave while doubling as a general soap – while a general soap likely wont do double duty as a shave soap. But if you’re that hard up for space, why bring a razor?