A 1906 Gillette advertisement

While a 1906 advertisement for the Gillette razor and blades are interesting by itself, it’s interesting by itself (the Simplest, Easiest, and Most Satisfactory Shaving Device in the World? I’ll believe that at the time), it is also interesting to read the claims and prices… to compare and contrast.

The claim of 20 to 40 shaves per blade is in line with Gillette’s’ current claim of “up to a month” of shaves from their cartridges. The cost of 50 cents per pack isn’t too far of the price of carts either; taking inflation into account it cost the equivalent of about 14 USD.

Shave of the day 12th June

Razor: Parker 22R
Blade: PolSilver Super Iridium
Brush: Vie-Long #13051M
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Arko Shavestick
Aftershave: Barber No3 Marmara
Additional Care: Alum Block, BullDog Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

Shave of the day 10th June

Razor: Parker 22R
Blade: PolSilver Super Iridium
Brush: Omega #10048
Pre-Shave: The Lavish Gentleman Natural Strength Oil Cleanser
Lather: Brutalt Bra TSN LE / Norwegian Wood
Aftershave: Proraso Wood and Spice
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil , & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb

A 1884 pamphlet: “The art of honing a razor. The art of shaving”

A delightful little pamphlet published by C H Lonergan in 1884, with a mere four pages of text… well worth the couple of minutes it takes to read through. Most assuredly in the public domain by now.

The Art of Honing a Razor
The first essential to painless and easy shaving is by use of a keen cutting razor, any of celebrated makes will do, but for ” self-shaving” none answers the purpose so well as the wedge-shaped blade, always avoiding the ” hollow-ground” or so-called ” rattlers” generally used by barbers, for the reason they arc so thin the edge will spring on a coarse beard, and will not cut so well as the thicker blades, which also hold a keen edge longer, and in all respects do better for private use. Next, after procuring a good water hone, with ” rubber,” a small slate stone always sold with the hone, and used to lubricate the hone with the aid of a sufficient amount of water, and rubbing this on the hone until a fine grit is evenly distributed over the surface. This done, and your hone placed in a firm position, you then proceed by stroking gently, the razor being placed on the side, bearing on it only sufficient to keep it firmly on the stone, drawing it from “heel to point” (the heel is the point nearest the handle, and the opposite the point), with the edge forward, and alternating the side after each stroke, and thus successively until a fine edge is obtained. If, during this process, the razor should click, jump, or give other evidence of some foreign substance between the razor and hone, it should be immediately removed by washing both hone and razor, rather than trouble looking for the mite or particle which caused it, as it will cause small “nicks” or breaks in the edge “of your razor, which you can determine by the use of a magnifying glass. Fig. I is the glass preferred by the writer for the purpose in question, and it would be always better before proceeding to use the hone, to examine the edge of the razor, as shown in Fig. V, in order to determine the amount of irregularities in the edge, then you know where to look for them, and when present, they will appear under the field of the glass as in Fig. 3.
Again, during the process of honing, from time to time pass the edge of your razor across your wet thumb or finger nail to clean it of what is called the ‘wire edge,’ after which again use the hone until you have a perfect, smooth edge, which, when obtained, will appear as shown in Fig. 2. Always make your examination in a good light, holding the glass, by means of the fenestration on the side, close to the eye and the razor close to the glass, and then focusing to your sight. After doing this a few times, you will soon become an adept in the use of it. When the edge is perfect, it will look uniformly smooth under the field of the glass, Fig. 2.
By closely studying the foregoing instructions, any person may in a short time become an adept at putting a razor in perfect order. 

The Art of Shaving. 
Many persons declare they cannot shave themselves, but after learning the first principles they find it “easy shaving” — the primary being a good sharp razor, and secondly how to use it.
After the face is well lathered and commencing to shave where the beard begins to grow at a point in front of the ear. with the razor in either hand holding the edge against the beard, and keeping the back of the razor close enough to the skin and without touching it, at the same time drawing the muscles’ of the opposite side of the face in order to tighten the skin of die part you are about to shave (as, by so doing, you will find it impossible to cut your face while shaving, as cutting is always by lack of observance of this rule), and at the same time giving a scythe-like or cutting motion, carefully avoiding the scraping or pulling down motion, and shaving with the growth of the beard, not against the “grain,” keeping in mind one grand principle in shaving, never turn the edge of the razor against the skin.
With the foregoing rules well in mind, you will have no trouble in -having, and overcome the dread of cutting yourself, and above all, the diseases likely to be contracted in barber shops from the use of unclean cups and razors, or shaving after some one with a loathsome skin disease.
After using a razor, always wipe it dry and clean, for by so doing moisture will not rust the fine edge; and to better insure against rust, carefully strap on a good leather strap kept especially for that purpose.
The following hints may prove valuable in determining the qualities of a razor: If after shaving carefully, you again examine the edge by the aid of the glass as in Fig. 2, and you find the edge turned, or in any way imperfect, it is safe to conclude that the razor is too soft or too hard. If the former, the edge will be turned or worn off; if the latter, it will be serrated and appear “broken out 1 ‘ along the edge, and therefore in purchasing a razor it is always better to adopt the plan generally adopted by barbers, i. e., to obtain the cutler’s sanction to allow you, by paying a trifle more, a reasonable length of time to try one after another until you get one to suit you. By this means you obtain all you wish in a razor. 

…simple and non-expensive safety razor

If you’re using a cartridge razor today, you know that the real cost is not in the razor, but in buying the replacements cartridges. In the same way, and for the same reasons, the real cost of using a DE back in the day was the replacement blades. This created the market for razor blade sharpeners as well as self sharpening razors (the Shake Sharp razors springs to mind). The cost also inspired Bertil Åström of Sweden to invent a simple and non-expensive safety razor;

The chief object of this invention is to create a simple and non-expensive safety razor uniting the advantages of the ordinary or knife razor and those of the so-called safety razors, while eliminating the disadvantages of the known razors.

In other words, combining the advantage of the straight’s everlasting blade with the shaving simplicity of a hoe type safety razor… while at the same time making the razor simple to manufacture, use, and maintain – without a top cap.

Another object of this invention is to render it possible to remove or to insert the blade in one single operation, i. e. in one single manipulative step […] while the non-cutting parts remain as a single, assembled aggregate
A further object of this invention is to construct the safety razor in such blade is always automatically exactly centred and kept in its correct position.
A further object of this invention is to construct manner that the a safety razor without any clamping plate on the blade, so that the razor has only a comb-shaped safety plate or guard below the blade.

So that is four things to achieve all at once, and the way Mr Åström went about achieving them is both simple and easy to manufacture. The patent drawing does a pretty good way of explaining it.

The whole razor consists of three major parts: A blade of a unique shape with a cut out in the back, a bolt and the handle with attached base plate…. and that’s it
The countersunk keyhole in the back of the blade makes for easy assembly and disassembly – the cone shaped head of the bolt easily and repeatedly locates and lock the blade in the correct spot – while the shape of the blade itself do away with the need for a top cap. That is two of the for items taken care of.
According to the patent the thickness of the blade increases the rigidity and reduces blade vibration, which should lead to the edge lasting much longer than the ordinary thin safety razor blades. Mr Åström also claimed that the angle of the edge would result in a  very efficient and painless shave.
The keyhole slot also means that one don’t have to to unscrew the bolt more than a few threads, leaning it secured to the rest of the razor, while the base plate (referred to as a carrier plate) is permanently fastened to the handle proper. That takes care of the two last items on the list.
To disassemble the razor, all the user have to do is to loosen the nut on the end of the handle and the blade will be free to slide off the carrier plate. To assemble it again after cleaning and/or honing the blade, all the user have to do is to slip the blade in place under the bolt head and tighten the nut. All told as easy as a twist to open DE, and with less parts to keep track of than a three piece safety razor.
The shape of the blade itself is another stroke of genius, and one that isn’t explicitly mentioned in the patent text; unlike a straight razor – or the blades used in most wedge-razors – it only needs to be honed on one side. Setting up the edge of a razor blade (or a knife, for that matter) takes a fair bit of skill, but Mr Åström made it a lot simpler with the shape of this blade.
Overall I’m quite impressed with the well though out simplicity of the design. As far as I can see it achieves it’s four stated goals, while additionally providing a blade design that would be far easier to maintain than the two sided hollow ground of most straight razors and wedge razors. It is a shame that the design don’t seem to have gone beyond the patent (which have expired by now, in case someone has a machine shop…).

Shave of the day 3rd June

Razor: Parker 22R
Blade: PolSilver Super Iridium
Brush: Semogue TSN LE 2012
Lather: Pereira Samle
Aftershave: Nivea Cooling After Shave Balm
Additional Care: Alum Block, Gentlemen of Sweden Original Beard Oil, & Pereira Shavery Boomerang Beard Comb